My Mysore: A personal story

 

My Mysore[1]



I couldn’t believe it at first when the name of the street was pronounced, Al-Anbia Street, the street where I grew up!

“Yep, I know where it is.” I replied.

Out of all the places in Ramallah, did it have to be in that same street?

        My first few visits to Mysore were ok. I did my extremely basic Ashtanga Yoga routine and learned few new alignments but I was preoccupied; all I wanted to do was go out on the kitchen balcony and see my neighborhood again. My heart nudged me to go out and see the untamed backyards where I used to play with my friends. I longed to see the small archaic stone steps again and climb the stone fences or ‘sinsela’[2] to reach the back yard of my childhood home.
Stone fence 'sinsela'
I craved to explore one more time all those naturally connected, almost chaotic gardens. 
        I wanted to see the old fig tree and its expansive shadowy branches, the embracive walnut tree sitting as a major monument in the middle of the neighborhood, the grapevines in every backyard, the three pomegranate trees that aligned our ‘sinsela’, and the huge mulberry tree where my friends and I always met under to munch on its sweet white berries whilst exchanging stories.

The house where Mysore classes took place was the last house in the street, and I never dared to enter its backyard. For some reason it was always my last frontier.

I couldn’t resist, in my last visit to the Mysore workshop, I went into the kitchen and asked if I could have a look outside from the balcony.

It all hit me gradually.

The next morning, I couldn’t do anything. It all came to me again. I couldn’t lock the tears.

I grew up in this neighborhood! The main street in Ramallah is down there adjacent to Al-Anbia Street. This was where it all happened; my childhood, my adolescent life: The occupation. A word used so often that it almost lost all meaning, but how could I escape its persecutory affects? This was where I experienced the military rule day in day out. All the demonstrations took place down there in the main street. These gardens were where they all fled. The young teenagers fled in this direction, and soldiers followed. The soldiers seemed huge, larger than the boys and faster but they quickly stopped. The boys took to the gardens, they knew these back routes by heart and to flee arrest they jumped the ‘sinselas’ from house to house, and from street to street, but the soldiers although they were bigger and faster they didn’t dare to venture in an unknown territory to them. The soldiers ran down the street, and soon they would realize they were out-fled. Some would dash into the entrance of a house and maybe decide to barge in and arrest the young boy or boys in that random house, all according to the temperament of the soldier at that moment.

I remember the noises of demonstrations exactly as they happened. Demonstrations rarely took more than five or ten minutes at the most. The clanking and clunking happened so quickly. First there were sounds of clanking; these were the metal stuff the young teenagers found in the streets and used to barricade the road to delay the Israeli soldier jeeps from moving quickly after them; they used large garbage bins, zinc sheets, large pieces of stone or brick, and inflamed tires. The clunking sounds of heavy metal doors of the shops closing came second. Then came the chanting; slogans for freedom and independence announced the beginning of the third or fourth minute. Depending on how far the Israeli jeep was, the chanting persisted. Once the rumbling sound of a racing jeep was heard, I knew the end was near; the rattling sound of stone throwing is heard. After so many years I could tell if stones hit the road, the pavements, the shops’ metal doors, or the Israeli jeep. After so much practice with hearing the sounds of demonstrations, I can distinguish the sound of a stun grenade from a shotgun, I can tell if live ammunition is used or not.

These sounds became sirens; once internalized the response instinctively would be to run away from that scene ‘to be’. The shops would close and everyone would run in any direction. Few minutes, that’s all it took. But these minutes were imbued with so much belief, so much theory, and so much politics that in reverence all would run and hide waiting to see if these few minutes would have a lasting impact on their lives. On some occasions, those moments can spiral a whole new wave of demonstrations, escalating emotions even further into negativity.

Usually the last sounds to be heard were the stamping sounds of running boots around our house; the heavy footsteps of soldiers and the lighter scuffling of young teenagers and their jumping off the ‘sinselas’ but the soldiers rarely jumped. I remembered the halting of the soldiers’ footsteps in the periphery of our house where we didn’t dare to look from the windows lest they saw us and thus barge in screaming and arrest my older brother. The intended fear of a military rule is capable of melting those minutes away from our lives.

Another fearsome sound would be the sound of a jeep racing through our street. Usually the jeep is too late. The young teenagers knew their escape route before they began demonstrating. But if the jeep suddenly made a shrieking sound and stopped, then an innocent young boy was probably the target and a whole new tragedy enfolded. Soldiers shouted and hit the innocent young boy and some women gathered and screamed to try and free him.

The final sounds that put an end to the drama were the soldiers shouting in Hebrew or in Arabic tainted with Hebrew accent at passing people or shop owners to clean up the barricade that was put up.

After that, it was all chattering about what had happened. With my friends, under the mulberry tree, and in those backyards, we shared stories about those arrested, and what had happened to them, and whether they were hit, or how severely were they hit, and whether they were later released or not. We exchanged anecdotes about those who fled, or even we would recall rare funny moments that some of us missed hiding. Ironically, even tragedies have their share of laughable moments.

That was it. Few minutes, that’s all it took, every day, such a heavy burden for a few minutes, now that I am looking back at it.

Every day, my mother scheduled her house chores according to these demonstrations. She tried to finish early before the demonstration began at around noon. My mother was in a frantic mood almost going crazy when the soldiers were around the house, and wouldn’t relax until she was certain the soldiers had left Al-Anbia Street and that would take some phone calls to neighbors who viewed different parts of the street. “So what if I get arrested?” my brother would argue with her.

 “But what if they beat you or arrest you and you’re not the same anymore?” replied my mother.

My little brother, on the other hand, always hid in his room when the noises of demonstrations began. With his hands, he always closed his ears.

My father owned a small shop in the main street, where all the demonstrations took place. After every demonstration, the street was emptied from customers and his small business suffered. My father was an emblem of silence, patience, and faith. He watched and spoke few words of approval, disapproval, encouragement or discouragement when needed. He only had three postures: a sitting posture behind the shop counter, the ‘TV posture’ in the evening and his prayer posture, ‘Al-Soujoud’ and ‘Al-Roukou’; the Muslim equivalent of ‘Ardha Uttanasana’ and ‘Balasana’ yoga poses.

I was a thirteen year old girl then. I faced no threat of arrest. I was the one my mother and father worried least about. I realized on that balcony in Mysore that since then and for five years, I was the forgotten one. I always tried to manage on my own, without asking anyone for help. I gave everything whenever I did anything craving for recognition.

And I was here, back again, trying through yoga and posture to understand who am I. In Ashtanga Yoga they say “practice and all is coming!” In a twisted fate of mine, life came to me first and then I did yoga. Amidst strife and sudden changes, I understood loss, grief, and the anger that ensued, all meshed together.

The irony in all of this is that in comparison to other tragedies, this is not considered a tragedy at all. I had a father born in a refugee camp and grown in another and a mother who belonged to a family that, because of war, had fled their home twice. How can I call my experience a tragedy in an area heavy with corpses and misery? 

The balcony
        And still from Al-Anbia Street balcony, I was a silent and a forgotten witness to so many subsequent tragedies. I have lived through one more intifada, and three regional wars[3], all with even harsher circumstances than the first Intifada.

I needed flexibility in life, and I had it, I had to bend in face of every war or hardship. In the name of duty and giving, I believed, or so I was raised, my time wasn’t mine to own. I lent it to everyone around who needed help or companionship. Yet I lacked strength, and I lacked regularity in my schedule. And so was my body, flexible but lacking in strength especially in the shoulder muscles that surround the heart. In yoga there is a need to be rooted, yet expansive upwards. Mysore planted me back in my neighborhood. The heart gets a special attention as the driver of movements, and here is where I found myself troubled.

As if I held the burden of the struggle all on my shoulders, my shoulders hurt. This was the embodiment of not being able to move ahead without healing the past. This was my past all cramped up in this one single room, in this one little insignificant street, yet so insurmountable for me.

I gullibly asked our Australian Ashtanga Yoga teacher on the last day of the workshop, “Can one start late in life to commit to yoga, even Ashtanga Yoga?”

He briefly gazed out the window before he replied, “Can you start with twenty or thirty minutes once a week?”

I looked at the younger and more advanced students doing their advanced postures. I said, “Twenty or thirty minutes once a week, yes, I think I can.”

“Then give it a go, and see where the practice takes you. I have students much older than you. It helps everyone in a different way,” the teacher said.

I needed to move ahead both in my practice and in life. I need to own my time and to develop strength and alignment. With my heart in perspective I need regularity; both a rare commodity in this part of land.



[1] Maysore is traditionally the name given to the self-practice of Ashtanga yoga class where students do certain poses in a certain sequence at their own pace and body alignment advice is offered.

[2] Sinsela is the Arabic name for stone fence.

[3] The two Gulf wars, the 2006 war in the north, that had a direct impact on the Palestinian struggle.

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